Cá Kho Tộ
Caramelized Clay-Pot Catfish
Nước Mắm
If you buy one Vietnamese ingredient, buy this. Everything else is downstream of a good bottle of nước mắm.
Fish sauce is not a condiment in Vietnamese cooking — it is the salt. It is in the broth, the marinade, the braise, and the dipping sauce on the table. Get a good bottle and your cooking jumps a level overnight; get a bad one and nothing quite tastes right.
The good news is that the bottle you want is cheap, widely available, and lasts for ages. This guide is the one I give every friend who asks where to start.
Real Vietnamese nước mắm is just two ingredients — anchovies and salt — fermented in wooden barrels for a year or more, then drawn off in pressings. The first press (nhất) is the most prized — clear, amber, and intensely savory. That umami depth is glutamates, the same thing that makes parmesan and soy sauce taste so good.
In the broth
A few tablespoons seasons a whole pot of phở or canh — added at the end
In a kho
Bloomed with caramel (nước màu) it becomes the savory backbone of every braise.
As nước chấm
Cut with lime
In a marinade
A splash in any grilled-meat marinade adds depth you can't get from salt alone.
Salt + a little soy
In a pinch it seasons
Vegan fish sauce
Seaweed-and-pineapple based versions are surprisingly good for vegetarian cooking — look for a high-glutamate brand.
Colatura di alici
Italian anchovy sauce is the closest cousin; use a little less as it's saltier.
Caramelized Clay-Pot Catfish
Caramel Braised Pork & Eggs
Hanoi-Style Beef Noodle Soup